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    1. OzFalcon News

      News from the OzFalcon team.

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  2. General

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  3. Merlin's Metalcraft Emporium

    1. Panel Beating Tech

      happy tappy... šŸ§™ā€ā™‚ļø

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    2. Paint Tech

      ooooh shiney

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  4. Technical

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      6 Cylinder Ford technical discussion.

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    2. V8 Tech

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    3. Forced Induction Tech

      All boosted and forced technical discussions.. Turbos and supercharges. Blow jobs and suck jobs!

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    5. Body and Exterior

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    6. Transmission and Differential

      "Trannys and Rears" technical discussion.

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    7. Steering, Suspension and Brakes

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    8. Cooling System

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    10. Auto Electrics

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    11. LPG Tech

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    13. Effies

      The tough big brother

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    14. Wheels and Tyres

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  6. Trash 'n' Treasure

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    4. Wanted

      Wanted Cars, Cars Parts, Car Accessories etc.

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  7. EA to FG Q&A or general info

    1. AU HEY YOU Q&A and general info series 1,2 and 3

      general thread for all questions and answers, if popular will be expanded further.Ā 

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  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 79 Guests (See full list)

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • spot welded and stitch welded, will need welding Ā 
    • Does this part of the frameĀ unbolt? I have access to an XF roller if it's easier to just pull parts off that.
    • they aren't stuck on as well as you'd think. they should be.Ā  Ā  if you can beat it back into position and weld it back on securely it's probably fine.Ā  (i bent a caster rod and lower control armĀ once, and it didn't pull that part off surprisingly) Ā  i'd avoid parts sold by suzuki super on ebay..Ā  other than just cheap parts are probably crap, i'd be more inclinde to see what's stuffed and ONLY change what's worn out .
      idler arm, probably all just as crap as the next one from any brand.. tie rods usually aren't shagged, if they aren't moving keep them.. upper and lower ball joints, i've heard the WASP ones are the better cheapies. REPCO branded ones were supposedly good if you want to buy from a shop, or 555 brand or TRW being the better brands.Ā Ā 
      Ā 
    • https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220873735667?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXF|Model%3AFalcon&_skw=xf+falcon+ball+joints&itmmeta=01JQGC9TAS5YJYK3070QEN5783&hash=item336d19bdf3:g:wS4AAMXQ1PNRaVI9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cffHdUR5aWsbdERj%2FJnWStUVF6ZvCL%2BjlUBaCKSXar0BVp%2FoRhUwxz74Fiqxmk%2BLiL7K0JlCm5v6QRHrWZxXAtKYlRY1R9%2Ff55yaTlkUDVEYMjBi90s80EUu5KnZ9eSlQ4cUHF%2FvXU9fWymWGjdhjXabJcCivqndJu%2FLOpT3M7KpwT7jRjd0rh6bBbaLrswQJqs4CJJbggPF4pm%2FJjZiq8rcjbu54DadPaIY1ZPfFKgifMnFJ9lIZ182ACGY0a4gj6YRFHwS69M%2BD6DS50qM9KEum4pldpHrolbdbClDVGHA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwqWnjLxl Anyone had any experience with this brand or know anywhere better/cheaper?
    • After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I'veĀ fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignmentĀ so after crab walking it homeĀ I'm firing up theĀ lemonade standĀ and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days
    • The following is a list of settings that can be altered, to suit personal preference -

      Personalisation Settings:

      Taxi Mode:
      Disabled: Means car is in normal mode. Door locks operate in a standard manner either 2 stage unlock or 1 stage unlock.

      Enabled: Car is in taxi mode. Remote key operates in a normal manner,but operation of central door lock(CDL) switch on the ICC is different. If any door is unlocked when the ICC CDL button is pressed the passenger doors will unlock (drivers door will remain locked)


      Panic Alarm Inhibit:

      Disabled: Allows operation of hazards,horn warning and courtesy lamps as a result of pressing of panic alarm button on remote key pad.

      Enabled: Disables operation of panic alarm. If this bit is set and panic alarm button is pressed on remote key pad nothing will happen.

      Door Trigger Disable Mode:

      Disabled: Means dome lamp operation will be triggered by opening and closing of doors.

      Enabled: Opening and closing the doors will not effect state of dome lamps ie.Opening a door will not turn on dome lamps, and closing a door will not turn off dome lamps. Also key out/dome on function will not operate. There is still control of dome lamps by operation of the ICC button, and operation of remote key. This bit can be set and reset by either using the WDS or alternatively pressing and holding the dome lamp button on for 5 seconds.

      Master Door Trigger Disable Mode:

      Disabled: Allows door trigger disable mode to be invoked by pressing and holding of ICC CDL switch.

      Enabled: Does not allow door trigger disable mode to be turned on or off by pressing and holding ICC CDL switch.

      Hazard Warning Inhibit:

      Disabled: BEM will operate the hazard lamps when any remote key is pressed and for key in lock warning. Ie unlock,panic,lock,remote boot release.

      Enabled: BEM will not operate the hazard lamps if any of the remote key buttons are pressed.

      Horn Warning Inhibit:

      Disabled: BEM will operate the horn in the event that the remote lock button is pressed twice within 3 seconds, or if the remote lock button is pressed when a transponder is still in the ignition.

      Enabled: BEM will not operate the horn under conditions described above.

      Battery Saver Inhibit:

      Disabled: Enables battery saver supply to operate as per normal operation.

      Enabled: Disables battery saver control by BEM when ignition is off. Remote key operation will not activate courtesy lamps. Door opening and closing will not activate dome lamps with ignition off bacause battery saver is not active when ignition is off. Battery saver will still be active when ignition is in the Accessories or Ignition on positions.

      Courtesy Lamp Inhibit:

      Disabled: Enables courtesy lamp output driver, such that courtesy lamps operate as per normal operation.

      Enabled: Disables courtesy lamp output driver. Courtesy lamps will never operate.
    • Thanks so much for replying Dean, yeah I was gonna give that a crack in the morning & did think wether undoing the top nut & bottom bolts then lowering the jack may work.Ā  Hopefully the springs aren't shagged, oh well to bad I'll give that ago & see how I get on. Ā 
    • if it's an XE or XF with coil springs on the diff, you should be able to with the car on chassis stands/hoist..just undo the shocksĀ and lower the diff down with a jack so the springs basically fall out of the way.. remove the spring and shock(air) as one and then refit the others any way you like

      i've never removed the boot hump things, but there might be enough clearance, worth a try if you can't do the chassis stands way. only 4 bolts and you'll soon find out.Ā 
    • Hey Guy's.Ā  Awesome Andy's amateur mechanical hour strikes again.. Was happy day's removing shock absorbers untill bearing in mind the one's I'm removing are Air shocks with a larger diameter circumferenceĀ on the upper shock not allowing it to slide out.Ā  What's next do I drop the diff & remove the whole spring šŸ¤”Ā  The little 10mm bolt on a sway bar coming out either side of the diff,is that what I remove? Really don't want to have to do that.Ā  Can I remove the topĀ  shock cover in the boot & pull out from above, oh god that's getting real amateur hour now.Ā  Any tips cuzzie bro's from across the ditch šŸ‘€šŸ¤£ Ā  Cheers šŸ» šŸ’„
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      EgoXF
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