I did a half assed rebuild on both the rear slaves so I know they are clear of debris and the hoses seemed okay but they will be getting changed along with all the other rubber components as time goes on That's probably gonna be the go for the time being as I gotta get my fg out the door first. I get that the oil pump will be cooked but if the journals aren't gonna be too affected then I'll just bump the idle up and swap it next weekend. I do wanna do rebuild the original more of an exercise in engine work than for any practical purpose although if the bores and bearings aren't too bad I'll probably just clean all the metal out of the engine and just do a cam swap and reseal. The one going in has unknown k's but he said it was running sweet before he swapped it for a V8 and it comes with some extractors already bolted on. 

is the hole in the bleeder blocked? 
the hoses can fail and get blockages also. 
if it works, it works, but if the hoses are sus, i'd change them or at least put them on a list when the budget allows     from my understanding, the oil filter should save the crank etc, but the oil pump will be sucking all this junk up unfiltered (just the screen)  not sure of anything else,  but i'd personally stick another engine in and not even bother rebuilding the other. (assuming the replacement is any good)  

Ive got one out of my XF, I'll test it tomorrow but if it works you can have it for $10

Ahh so it would be best to get it fixed sooner rather than later. Would it just mess up the bearings and oil pump or will it scrag the journals as well?

Well the Idea sorta worked. It didn't just flow out when I cracked the bleeder like I hoped but it definitely helped get the air bubble out of the system when pumping the brake (even after adding the fluid back in it was down a quarter from what it was). The setup was pretty crappy with it leaking air from everywhere but with some more work this could make life that bit easier. Still probably easier to just buy a vacuum bleeder!

cam metal is pretty hard, if it gets anywhere it will do damage. 

My Dad did this back 30 years or so ago, it works. 
gravity bleeding can also work, but if you are having issues, then it's time to try different ways.   i recently heard of using a syringe to bleed from the bottom up (on a clutch slave cyl) which would have fixed the issue on My van's air lock under the dash . (i ended up putting a radiator hose on the filler cap and blowing with My mouth over it.    

Ah ok, it was my understanding that it would turn freely clockwise but there is some resistance turning anti-clockwise. Well that's what I read somewhere online.

I suppose that would have a similar kind of deal to the standard one man bleeder (with substantially less fucking about). There isn't a store that stocks that stuff where I live otherwise I would give that a try. My idea was to modify the a spare reservoir cap and install an air fitting into it, then just pressurise the reservoir to a few psi and just crack the lines (kinda like a reverse vaccum bleeder) I'll give it a try tonight and get back to you with the results

Yes checking like that it will turn both ways . In operation the centre is locked on the stator support and the actual stator then turns or is locked depending on load . What you're seeing is only the inner race  The actual stator is on the outside of that inner race