Jump to content
  • Forum Statistics

    8,121
    Total Topics
    274,117
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    4,959
    Total Members
    1,561
    Most Online
    jeff stimson
    Newest Member
    jeff stimson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 33 Guests (See full list)

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • SEATBELTS.. (Front) AU 

      need a T50 torx and 10mm and phillips head. 
      here's a link, because you guessed it.. the Haynes manual shows nothing..

      https://www.fordmods.com/fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/photo-essay-au-bf-falcon-driver-seat-belt-replacement-t124557.html
    • in case no one else jumps in before you find the answer. 

      i believe the dipstick location could be an issue, (block or sump may need drilling) sump and might be different,  
      definitely look it up before buying. (i only vaguely remember Street Machine's turbo taxi being a pain for similar reasons. )
    • @SPArKy_Dave keeps the photos of everything..  i'll attempt to find it again and probably won't be able to even next week. but here it is uploaded to the forum. 
       
    • AU upper ball joints 
      i bought a spare set of arms for this job, because i didn't want the car disabled if i had some kind of issue.. $60 the pair including postage on ebay with "tight" ball joints. (i was tempted to use them, however when i removed one of the ball joints, it did actually have some play in it, easier to feel with the boot removed i bet also) 
      the bushes, i was tempted to leave in.. they were probably fine but "new is new" (Mackay brand bushes i fitted, genuine ford ball joints)

      the same ball joint press was used as the lower in the previous post. ($48 incl post ebay) 

      THIS JOB IS HARD! I'm going to assume the upper ball joints could be done in the car, and it might be useful to do it if you don't have a vice (hard job to refit the ball joint, and the vice wasn't strong enough to push it in either)

      one of the hardest parts of this job is finding the right spacer ring/socket, pressing die etc to fit your application. the 10 provided aren't enough. 

      i'll run through My list of things i did for this job, then provide pics that might be useful. 

      the pressing out socket. 

        TIGHT to press out, one made the familiar POP sound, the other just moved easily.  first one i set the shifter on it to stand on at first and it just came out, but it ended up in the vise as standing on the shifter wasn't working.
       

      BUSHES NEXT
      i used mapp gas to head the outside of the bush housing, and beat them out with an extension bar. EASY..
      (hard part was refitting them)
          I tried to set the ball joint using the vise, but it went a bit cockeyed and needed to be punched out again, vice had no hope of pushing the ball joint in, and i even heated the arm and had the ball joint in the freezer for a good 30mins..

          this was the START of the refit of the bushes
      i found a bolt with washer in the arm and using a press cup on the other side was the best way to fit these. Nolathane would be easy.
        decided i might clear coat the ball joint tops.. after painting the arms black
         
       
    • LOWER BALL JOINTS LOWER IN THE CAR (this post may be edited with uppers also later)

      AU (and probably same for E series and B series to some degree) 
      assuming your lower control arm bushes are ok, you can do the lower ball joints in the car

      This is a HARD JOB

      2nd time writing this up, i'm going to add the pics now and edit the details later. 
      disc needs removing, but you can rebolt the caliper back on
       
      grease the tool before using
        make sure you have enough height on your stands to wind the tool.. (i used a shifter for ground clearance)
      i just sat it over at first to be sure




      this needed changing, i ended up using a socket. you'll see later


      this almost worked, but the washer pulled through



      the 1/2 drive socket jammed on the threads. so i decided to make it a square shape, i was tempted to chop it off, but wasn't sure if i'd need the length to beat on it if i had to. 

        the tool was turning with the force, so i needed to jam it with the breaker bar. 
        once the ball joint moved even 1mm there was a POP/THUNK noise.. it was fairly freely moving after that.
          the new one pressed in fairly easy, (next time i'll freeze it first so it's possibly easier) but i wasn't sure when it was finally all the way home, the tool seemed to just get hard to turn any further, and that was it.. 
       
    • Just wondering what engines can I put in a fg? I saw a bf barra come up for cheap near me and was wondering if it would work?
    • Hey presto Make sure to save it as discord links like to go dead!
    • Yeah man will do, The only other xf ute ive seen also just had a gas tank so it had me fucked
    • the bracket thing could be upside down in the pic,

      if you can, take a photo when you try it and we might be able to have one on hand for future (its' the first time i've seen one.. usually there's a gas tank in my X series ute spare wheel space)
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. dizzy616
      dizzy616
      (35 years old)
×