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Thom, still the legend when it comes to hotrodding different engine combos!
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Yes it will run hot if you spin the water pump backwards, the design of the impeller and timing cover are both to suit the reverse rotation water pump and will cavitate the water rather than pump when spun backwards, to go to standard rotation you need a pre 86 timing cover, water pump and balancer (balancer needs to be 58ounce imbalance as you have a roller cam engine, if you use a 28ounce early balancer then engine will vibrate and possibly damage the crank, you also have to use a flywheel or flex plate to suit the roller cam engine, 1986 was when the 5.0l went to 58ounce balancer and flywheel/flexplate) the early timing cover, water pump and balancer also means you will need an early alternator bracket, be aware the v belt setup makes a windsor longer than the serpentine setup but that's not a problem in an early falcon
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@Thom may know for certain, but if you are ditching the serpentine belt setup for V belts, (this needs confirming) i thought you just buy an early water pump for V belts and it will be good to go assuming you have all the brackets and pulleys for the V belts.
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Hi dudes. I am replacing the injection with a carby and want to put an early water pump and fan on an EFI 302 for my early Falcon. I know that this will mean the pump will run in the opposite direction to the serpentine belt. Does anyone know if this will affect the cooling ie will it run hotter? cheers
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if you have any requests, i might come across some more specific to your needs that will help others
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By SOHCDriver · Posted
Very good video. Thank you. I'll be watching this space. (EA to FG sections) -
Rod bends and twists, valve pocket is no longer below valve, flat of the piston hits a valve and bends it
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By the miracle stick mechanic · Posted
How exactly does water in the engine bend a valve when it would just pump the water through an open valve ? He hasn't even done a compression test with a decent compression gauge . I disagree . -
Sounds like it's autopsy time, if the gauge is correct, it means that every cylinder has damage, you won't know without pulling the head off or using a bore scope to assess what went wrong, but if I were a betting man I would say you have more than your fair share of bent rods and valves, and if it is really that bad you may be better of financially to just swap the whole engine