One way to find out, going to get another torque convertor which I should've done in the first place.

Try something. Bolt the spacer plate, drive plate, and bellhousing back on and run the engine without the trans. Curious to know if there is any noise WITHOUT the auto.   Also, did it make the same noise prior to the auto rebuild?

As you say . Nothing really obvious there . Bush looks fine . Clearance is a bit tight and a bit more would be preferable but I don't think that would be the noise .  Gears are new and outer good looks correct , dot was downwards . Bush is fitted correct with respect to the lube notch Only other thing , I have heard about it but never had it happen myself is the converter making a noise 

Finally got around to removing front pump. No obvious signs excessive wear or damage.                     Although the bushing seems to be worn on one side but not sure if it's excessive.            

blockplate to flexplate measured 21mm and convertor to bellhousing 21- 23mm depending which side I'm measuring from.

the bonus with setting up for AU engine.. is if it needs another down the track, they are far more common currently, without head gasket issues..   would be interesting to see the cost differences.. assuming the engine wasn't fubar in the XG (rust from sitting with blown head gasket/full of water for months/years?)    but this was initially done with an AU engine with intent for BARRA down the track, hence the tuff mounts sway bar ($400 ish, also clears the AU sump)

  what else needs buying? (i'll add prices from Jollys price list later when i have time)
Belt.. probably similar cost to an EF -AU belt anyway.  $40 to $60 
XH air con bracket and compressor $ XH tensioner $
AU alternator used..  $50 ish
bit of splice with radiator hose to neck it down to the AU water pump outlet size. (probably is an adapter for it to buy) $ intake gasket needed $     

it seemed a risk, for not much extra an AU alternator was purchased and will be plug n play. the 6PK2460 belt was purchased from repco ($20 dearer, but had the option to return if it didn't fit)
 
 

Not sure? If it's for the 3 wire one, maybe it just runs at full output, without any control?

So that BA alt won't work in XG in 2 wires? What's the loom for?     Xg engine is cooked. Glazed bores head needs machining...$4000 reco? $172 for the AU engine that has an MLS gasket fitted seems cheaper even with the custom bits

So long as it's a two wire alternator, not the later 3 wire one (refer patch harness pic with missing center pin)   Later BA/BF 3 wire alternators, are duty cycle controlled by the PCM.   Me personally, I'd avoid everything and just fix the XG engine (new composite head gasket, with ARP head studs)   Even AU head on XG seems easier possibly? (needs block machined to correct RA finish, to seal AU spec MLS head gasket)