Hey Odie, There is a fusible link for the fuel pump. They can be replaced with an auto-reset circuit breaker .

The pump gears. Inner gear, the bevel on the gear must face forward. The outer gear if original will have a dot must face out . If ar=aftermarket gears, then outer gear usually can go either way . the outer gear has a bevel on the inner teeth is the reference point    Also needto look at the crescent in the pump , see if inner gear is wearing on it   

the relays have contacts inside that can get tarnished etc.  even just unplugging them(the flexing etc) might be enough to help them back to life again.  at least you know a bit more about them in the process, that's basically how i learned everything i know.. fixing broken things

OK - fuel pump now running though not sure why.   I removed every relay and connector I could find between the battery and brake booster and gave their contacts a thorough clean even though they didn't look too bad.  I never found a fuel pump fuse but did find a small green module plugged into a yellow harness tucked below the relays beside the brake booster - It was marked as a 4.7ohm resistor. I pulled it and cleaned it's connections as well.   Thanks for the comments - they helped me confirm there's no obvious fuse in the engine bay.

only thing i knew about were the 2 relays  under the bonnet near brake booster (green one and grey one.. fuel pump relay and ecu relay) no idea about a fuse, i haven't played with efi x series enough (deliberately chose carby versions for 15yrs ) 

Not going to enjoy that, was easier bolting to the engine while it was out. I was hoping I won't need to remove the pump, have no idea what to look for or know if the pump gear is backwards.        

That's not good . Should slip back easy 3-5 mm . Starter won't have any effect.   At this stage likely the best next step is remove trans , do some measuring of converter etc . Then pump out to inspect . I'm wondering if inner pump gear is fitted backwards could cause all these issues    If old mate that built it left that valve out at the filter who knows what else he has f___ked up 

Righto, may have an issue, I removed all the convertor nuts and could not move the cnvertor back or forth. Even gave the convertor a bit of a tap with a flat punch and hammer, no movement at all. So I'm wondering if the covertor is not in properly causing it to be tight against the flexplate.   I do remember the convertor bolt holes on the flexplate not being perfectly aligned by only a smidgen, wasn't easy getting the transmission in. I thought abouty making the holes bigger but was concerned about affecting the flex plate balance. So there is a chance while I was battling to get the transmission on, either the convertor move forward a bit or the convertor is not sitting flat on the flex plate.   Have to say while turning the engine manually didn't feel any unusual resistance either.       Don't think the staerter motor is an issue.      

My bad, just read it again..... @SPArKy_Dave or @deankxf  any ideas.??

My fuel pump is no longer starting when you operate the ignition. The pump works fine if you hot wire it. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for it?   Troubleshooting so far: I had a flat battery caused by a door lamp operating 24/7 due to a broken switch (must fix that). The car was running really well before the flat battery. I charged the battery up (neg batt terminal disconnected while charging) and then tried to start the car - did not hear the fuel pump operate - car no start I took the fuel pump out - was in surprisingly good condition.  Operates when connected to a battery - no issues there (drained the tank varnish while I was in there) I turned to the pump relay under the dash near the brake booster.  There is no power coming to the relay on the signal wire when I operate the ignition (I can operate the pump manually when I put 12v to the pump wires - that side of the relay has constant 12v to it). The Gregory's manual says to check that the fuel pump fuse is serviceable (pg94). I can't find a fuel pump fuse anywhere. I've looked under the steering column and all fuses are good (most are lights, instruments etc - One 10a fuse is call engine and it's fine.  There are 2 barrel fuses coming off the +ive battery terminal and they are fine also.   Any suggestions?