Notes: 
There is absolutely no need to dismantle the steering box unless oil leaks are occurring .
After removal, rotate from lock to lock until ALL the oil is expelled to prevent fluid friction affecting the adjustments .   Removing preloads
1.  Remove allen key  plug #5 and undo the output shaft adjuster 2-3 turns anti-clockwise.
2.  Loosen the locknut and undo the input shaft bearing adjuster #26 by 1/2 to 1 turns anti-clockwise.
3.  Loosen the locknut and undo the power steering piston adjuster #10 by 1/2 to 1 turns .
Now you are ready to make the three adjustments    Note: The aim is to create some binding and friction as the input shaft passes through the straight ahead position from each side. 
But this friction should only be created by the final adjustment made on the output shaft.
This helps  the car to maintain a straight line course and prevents the steering from wandering .   1.  The three adjustments are to be made while the steering is turned about a 1/4 turn away from the straight ahead position . 
This is because the steering box is designed to have freeplay when the steering wheel is turned away from the central position .   2.  The steering box must be removed from the car to make the adjustments  because the first two adjustments are critical and must not bring about any friction as the steering box passes through the straight ahead position . 
You will not feel the friction with enough sensitivity if you are turning the steering wheel with the box installed. 
This must be done by feeling with your hand as you rotate the input shaft one quarter turn either side of the straight ahead position (with the  flexible coupling fitted ).   3.  The three adjustments are the input shaft (the shaft connected to the steering wheel ),
the power steering piston, and finally the output shaft (the shaft connected to the pitman arm)   4. The adjustments are made in the order mentioned directly above in point three.   5. The adjustments are made in this order because only the third and final adjustment made on the output shaft should introduce any friction as the input shaft passes through the straight ahead position    6. The  input shaft adjustment is made the exact same way a wheel bearing is adjusted .
ie. Tighten/preload the bearing adjustment nut and then back off slightly  ensuring no friction is felt as the input shaft is turned after adjustment .   7. The power steering piston is adjusted clockwise until friction occurs as the box passes through the centre position . The adjustment must be made with the box turned 1/4 turn off centre in either direction .
Then back it off until the friction is completely removed. But only just removed .   8. Finally, tighten the output shaft adjuster until a little bit of binding occurs as the box passes through the centre position .
Make the adjustment whilst the box is turned 1/4 turn off-centre.
You should be able to turn the box through the centre position using your hand to rotate the flexible coupling.
It shouldn't be easy to turn through the centre position .
And it shouldn't be hard to turn through the centre position .
Find the middle ground .
 

I needed some seat material for my XH XR6 . I got referred to Charlie at  C&N Trimming in5 Douglas Rd North Sunshine.93110722 He had both the different outside and inside trim's. He said he had all kinds of NOS bits and pieces , so maybe worth a call. Then i asked him about some Sierra Tan S pack material for my XE ,he said "except that".

I've just ordered the black trim from Global so get hold of Ben quick while they still have it.

they definitely did, but i can't find a pic on google either

Hey team,   Can someone tell me if rear XF calipers came with standard shims to reduce pad movement? My google/ Ebay searching would suggest not....   My inner pads are moving (up and down) in the caliper, causing an annoying rattling/ clacking sound. Before the brake guy attempts to fabricate some thought I'd check my options.   Also, does anyone have a line on new anti rattle clips? I'm struggling to track down used ones on this side of the ditch and (again) before I have one made up, wanted to check if there were aftermarket ones lurking somewhere. Again, google search would suggest not.   Cheers,   Wade.

this should be a warning to anyone who's bought one, considering buying or has currently chewed out their "spud" adapter with a Barra ZF6 speed into landcruiser..     

Awesome M8,thanks alot 

Yep that's the one.  And on the passenger side of an ohc six engine block near the dizzy if you are finding one from a wreckers or donor car.    Be aware the base models will be a switch on/off for the light. The s pack etc are a bigger unit that varies the guage

I know its an old thread, but how did you go with the exhaust and tank? I've got a cover i picked up and was hoping to see if you figured out a way to have a tank and the twin exhaust?

Thanks Dean, so am I correct in thinking the oil sender is the thing screwed into the top of the engine block behind the intake manifold on 351c