only difference with the V8 was rear discs, Vented on XE XE   (even though EB V8s had solid discs)  some say the V8s had PBR front calipers (iron ones like XC) but I've seen the Girlock (basically XF ones) on V8 cars also, and believe they are basically same performance wise. XE Ghia had rear discs 250crossflow standard (same with fairlane/LTD) they were basically V8 brakes other than the potential different front calipers(older Vs Newer)   Hoppers stoppers do a "big brake" kit, which uses bigger rotors and AU series 2/3 or BA calipers from memory (could be commodore for all i know)  these may need bigger wheels than 15" 
you'd then at minimum need a proportioning valve as the fronts will over power the rears i would imagine. 
very expensive, how fast are you going to be going?    

I'm sure this has been brought up before but I can't find anything.

I'm looking at a XE 250xflow manual and Ii'm wanting to do say 4-6 track days per year.  Is there much difference moving up to the factory 351 brake setup?? I'm thinking surely the V8 stuff is more robust especially with slotted rotors and track pads.

spot welded and stitch welded, will need welding  

Does this part of the frame unbolt? I have access to an XF roller if it's easier to just pull parts off that.

they aren't stuck on as well as you'd think. they should be.    if you can beat it back into position and weld it back on securely it's probably fine.  (i bent a caster rod and lower control arm once, and it didn't pull that part off surprisingly)   i'd avoid parts sold by suzuki super on ebay..  other than just cheap parts are probably crap, i'd be more inclinde to see what's stuffed and ONLY change what's worn out .
idler arm, probably all just as crap as the next one from any brand.. tie rods usually aren't shagged, if they aren't moving keep them.. upper and lower ball joints, i've heard the WASP ones are the better cheapies. REPCO branded ones were supposedly good if you want to buy from a shop, or 555 brand or TRW being the better brands.  
 

How fucked am I?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220873735667?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXF|Model%3AFalcon&_skw=xf+falcon+ball+joints&itmmeta=01JQGC9TAS5YJYK3070QEN5783&hash=item336d19bdf3:g:wS4AAMXQ1PNRaVI9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cffHdUR5aWsbdERj%2FJnWStUVF6ZvCL%2BjlUBaCKSXar0BVp%2FoRhUwxz74Fiqxmk%2BLiL7K0JlCm5v6QRHrWZxXAtKYlRY1R9%2Ff55yaTlkUDVEYMjBi90s80EUu5KnZ9eSlQ4cUHF%2FvXU9fWymWGjdhjXabJcCivqndJu%2FLOpT3M7KpwT7jRjd0rh6bBbaLrswQJqs4CJJbggPF4pm%2FJjZiq8rcjbu54DadPaIY1ZPfFKgifMnFJ9lIZ182ACGY0a4gj6YRFHwS69M%2BD6DS50qM9KEum4pldpHrolbdbClDVGHA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwqWnjLxl Anyone had any experience with this brand or know anywhere better/cheaper?

After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I've fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignment so after crab walking it home I'm firing up the lemonade stand and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days

The following is a list of settings that can be altered, to suit personal preference -

Personalisation Settings:

Taxi Mode:
Disabled: Means car is in normal mode. Door locks operate in a standard manner either 2 stage unlock or 1 stage unlock.

Enabled: Car is in taxi mode. Remote key operates in a normal manner,but operation of central door lock(CDL) switch on the ICC is different. If any door is unlocked when the ICC CDL button is pressed the passenger doors will unlock (drivers door will remain locked)


Panic Alarm Inhibit:

Disabled: Allows operation of hazards,horn warning and courtesy lamps as a result of pressing of panic alarm button on remote key pad.

Enabled: Disables operation of panic alarm. If this bit is set and panic alarm button is pressed on remote key pad nothing will happen.

Door Trigger Disable Mode:

Disabled: Means dome lamp operation will be triggered by opening and closing of doors.

Enabled: Opening and closing the doors will not effect state of dome lamps ie.Opening a door will not turn on dome lamps, and closing a door will not turn off dome lamps. Also key out/dome on function will not operate. There is still control of dome lamps by operation of the ICC button, and operation of remote key. This bit can be set and reset by either using the WDS or alternatively pressing and holding the dome lamp button on for 5 seconds.

Master Door Trigger Disable Mode:

Disabled: Allows door trigger disable mode to be invoked by pressing and holding of ICC CDL switch.

Enabled: Does not allow door trigger disable mode to be turned on or off by pressing and holding ICC CDL switch.

Hazard Warning Inhibit:

Disabled: BEM will operate the hazard lamps when any remote key is pressed and for key in lock warning. Ie unlock,panic,lock,remote boot release.

Enabled: BEM will not operate the hazard lamps if any of the remote key buttons are pressed.

Horn Warning Inhibit:

Disabled: BEM will operate the horn in the event that the remote lock button is pressed twice within 3 seconds, or if the remote lock button is pressed when a transponder is still in the ignition.

Enabled: BEM will not operate the horn under conditions described above.

Battery Saver Inhibit:

Disabled: Enables battery saver supply to operate as per normal operation.

Enabled: Disables battery saver control by BEM when ignition is off. Remote key operation will not activate courtesy lamps. Door opening and closing will not activate dome lamps with ignition off bacause battery saver is not active when ignition is off. Battery saver will still be active when ignition is in the Accessories or Ignition on positions.

Courtesy Lamp Inhibit:

Disabled: Enables courtesy lamp output driver, such that courtesy lamps operate as per normal operation.

Enabled: Disables courtesy lamp output driver. Courtesy lamps will never operate.

Thanks so much for replying Dean, yeah I was gonna give that a crack in the morning & did think wether undoing the top nut & bottom bolts then lowering the jack may work.  Hopefully the springs aren't shagged, oh well to bad I'll give that ago & see how I get on.