Confirming they are surprisingly the same  

1.5 Years later, I've finally had time to remove the engine and tear it down.   On holidays for the Anzac long weekend, but will post some photos and engine measurements once I'm back.   The car has done ~5,000 KMS of street and strip, revving to 5.2K regularly, from memory the ROD bearing clearances coming out of the motor are around 0.019 - 0.029mm.   Got the next version of the build planned out, it's final state made 185rwhp and 380NM torque ATW. Peak horsepower was at 5K and torque from 3 - 5K.   My goal for this next build is to fall into the 250-300 RWHP range, I would like to get the RPM to 6.5K for PEAK and hit that over and over again without fail.   To start, getting the engine entirely balanced again and block zero decked.   I have two questions: I have a 3.3L engine with 200 rods lying around, I've always been interested in taking a 200 rod combo approach, I've read a handful of threads and aware it's expensive, hard and really for the 7K RPM mark. But the burning question I have is if anyone can point me to pistons I need to use for it, I keep seeing that I need specific/custom pistons to make 200 rods work in a 250 block. I have a virgin C2 Alloy head, I know the first thing I want to do is grind the point int he chamber down to reduce it becoming a hot spot. Could anyone recommend any other porting or valve work I should do for the power range and RPM range I'm aiming for?

I'm going to assume they are the same,   But when I've done the eb diff I would have used the XF bar because I didn't get an EB one with the diff, and the wagon EB diff I fitted to my ute also didn't have a sway bar so it didn't get one (ute doesn't have one)  

Hi All, just curious for those of you, who have put in a EF diff into an XF what watts link and sway bar did you use, the one from the XF or EF?

TO BE CONTINUED (when i repair what i broke, trying to fix the clock globe) 

CRUMBOLIUM (is what i'm calling the plastic housing on the back of the heater controls)
* be super careful and only remove if necessary after reading the below. 
it took me looking in every AU at Pick a part,  4 remaining broken ones to piece together another cracked heater control that might work (mine only has a broken cable mount, so i may not even use it yet as it's unknown if it will work on the other parts)


i'll add some more photos in the next week 

now, you probably SHOULDN'T need to remove this cable behind the glovebox normally, but that's only because when new, the cable holder was strong enough to unclip without breaking. 
it's similar to the XF type, but instead of a metal clip that flies off and gets lost, it flips up(quite tightly clipped down, lever with a small screw driver to flip it up from the sides)
the other clip to the right is released by pushing the small screw driver over the cable outer and under the bitey bit of the clip and levering it out until it pushes the cable out.  (image below was from a helpful facebook group member that took a video of it) 


the facia, which i'll detail a bit further when i go in to fix it again will be able to swing out further without breaking as easily (if not already broken) DEAR ON EBAY (sold prices below) 

 

A 78DA-7003-AB gearbox, is from an 81' onwards XD They were used in either 3.3/4.1 or 4.9 XD's, possibly very early XE's. Shorter ratio gearbox, I believe

Looking at the Exedy website, all the single rails (even 3speed) are 10 spline on the clutch friction plate 3speeds just have a smaller diameter shaft at 24mm, over 27.5mm   The info regarding 19/20/21/22 splines, relates to the opposite end of the input shaft, internal to the gearbox?   First screenshot is all XD, and XE up to 05/82 Second screenshot is XE only, from 05/82            

Would you mind trying to decipher my tag.  Judging by all the research I'm doing I'm hopeful the first gear ratio isn't to high as I have plans for it getting bolted behind a 351c Seen Chestnut comments saying he had a 015 but 016 could be different all again 

i had a quick look through that,   I've never known one to be different, but anything's possible with Ford i guess.