I'm unsure on the best break-in oil, for every-day oil, I run 15w40 Diesel (mineral) oil, as it usually has higher levels of zinc, etc.

Any recommendations for break in oil? Asso what do I run after I break in the cam

just in case it's answered here,   i'll post this thread to double check  anything that's possibly relevant.     

hi everyone   been to a garage to get the transmission leak checked out because it appeared the drivers side servo cover where c clip is was slowly leaking.   it is now confirmed the drivers side servo cover with the c clip is leaking a bit.   just wondering in the ba fairmont ghia wether the o rings on the servo cover can be done with gearbox still in car.   seen and heard the servo cover can be removed with the gearbox in car but gearbox will have to be dropped at the back a little or the cat converter might have to be removed to get to covers.   how many hours will it take to do the drivers servo cover where the 3 o rings are.   if those of you that had same problem with your cars and is able to help with answers to how you had yours done itd be appreciated.   thanks

Ive been a little quiet again, because well, i can't catch a break. The poor little Escort is back in the panel shop at the moment...I'll get to that further down    So going back to where I was up to in my previous post, fitting these wheels, and having brake issues...   I found a place in Moorabbin who CNC billet slip on spacers for thousands of different cars, as well as other random parts and stuff that is not car related. They are made to order, but they had a listing for hub centric spacers for Escorts. less than $100, and i have billet 5mm slip on spacers so the front wheels will clear my brakes.      This is where the wheels sit with the spacer in behind. they do clear. I have had the car out on the street with it all sitting flat and in level etc etc, and they do not scrub anywhere, but they do fill the front guards perfectly. I can't wait to get them on     I had been bench testing the master cylinder to make sure i got rid of the leak...how? well I ended up finding the old o-ring from before i rebuilt the master cylinder, which is a round profile instead of square. it was in good condition, so reinstalled that, then had the reservoir filled with fluid, and was using a pulling tool to recreate the motion of applying the brakes on and off. I left it on the bench with fluid in it for a few days to be sure it wasn't leaking. and success.      So I reinstalled the master cylinder, ready to bleed the brakes and get them working and car driving...       ..... then this happened ......           Where do i even start?   I was pushing the car around the shed by hand, getting it into position to jack it up and put on stands so i could get underneath to bleed the brakes. I was rushing 🤦‍♂️ and I rolled it a bit too far forward. The car rolled off the concrete slab shed floor, onto the (downhill) driveway that leads to the laneway that the shed exits onto. Now before you ask, I did have wheel chocks, they were purposely just down the driveway a bit so i had more room to move the Escort around, however it was raining, so when the car rolled into the chocks it managed to push them out the way on the slipper concrete driveway. The Escort proceeded to roll across the laneway and into the wire fence of the office building behind 😥  I did manage to slow the car down by doing the silly thing and getting in front of it, getting out of the way in time to not be pinned against the fence. so the damage could have been a lot worse if i didn't slow it down. i couldn't reach to grab the handbrake quick enough either.    As you can imagine i was furious, at myself more than anything else. it took me weeks to bring myself to call Mark and tell him the car was coming back to him. He was furious with me too.    After cooling down, i finished bleeding the brakes, and decided id have a go at fixing the worst of the damage myself...      Using a heat gun to warm things up and a ratchet i pulled the dent out, reversing the initial impact.          I could at least get the bumpers back on, and get it looking presentable again so I didn't feel so upset.    When this all happened, after bleeding the brakes the same day that i did this, I left the car on stands for about 2 weeks. I would walk into the shed, see it, and walk back out. i had no motivation to fix it, or even look at the car.    When I finally did get it off stands, fix the dent, fitted the bumpers, washed it and took it for a drive, i finally had the guts to call Mark and get it in for repairs, which is where the car has now been for a week. I have no idea how long it will take, or how much, i simply left the car with Mark and told him to just repair it and tell me when its done.            So apart from the paint damage around the headlight, the car still presented really well, and once I gave it a wash, was nice to just stand back and look at it and appreciate that it still looked fine even with the damage, and when its repaired (again) it will only be better.    This 👇 was a shitty day, pulling it apart again to go back to Marks.      

Green/Red is permanent 12v ignition, and also powers the carburetor's choke coil and carby fuel-cut solenoid I believe - @deankxf? (sometimes also tapped into, for LPG converted vehicles)   Pink/Blue is the tacho wire, only in use when running a tacho cluster.   The EST has a wire to the carby throttle stop (basic on/off TPS) Three wires to the distributor in one connector A 12v supply, a negative wire to ground the coil as required an A/C compressor on/off reference wire to bump timing/idle speed plus a couple of wires to a diagnostic connector, near the brake booster  

The fuel pump is 12v .the old mechanical pump is still sitting on the block lol not connected. I have yet to disconnect the est .the fuse block is all good have checked the wiring underneath the dash with a touch and followed it back to the est and couldn't fine any trace of burnt wires .have noticed when the pump is connected to the wires that go to the coil the pump struggles to pump.witch is the green and red and the pink blue wires so when you jump it from another source of 12 v the pump is fine . Back to the spark so the wires that I mentioned plus the three wires that go to the Dissy is part of the lume that heads back to the est .I think ???. 

Carby XF's have a mechanical fuel pump. Does yours have a custom setup?   If there's underlying wiring issues, a new distributor may not solve the problem.  

hi everyone   have a da ltd head unit and wondered if it can be made to work without the amp that comes with it.   would anyone have a full wiring diagram for the da ltd premium sound and full pinouts for all plugs on the head unit.   is the wiring harness for the da ltd console that runs the stereo and the rear control and amp easy to find, where do you find them.   if anyone on here has a wiring diagram and full plug pin outs for all plugs and can help itd be great   dont have the harness and rear control and amp, only got the main head unit.   is there a way to make the stereos from a e series fit in a x series dashboard and look like car came with it.   thanks

I have the car pulled apart to fine the problem all I rember that Friday after noon it just stoped right in the middle of a intersection with no fuel pump and no spark . So by jumping wire to the pump it works elimination 1 eliminating 2 no power to the coil . And a burnt smell in the vehicle.??